BeanScene Magazine


When in Rome …

From the December 2010 issue.

Ah! Italian espresso. We hear a lot about it, but if you find yourself in the “Eternal City,” where do you head for the ultimate caffeine fix? Photographer, Susan Wright and correspondent, Gina Tringali, went in search of the not-to-be-missed, artisan outlets.

For Italians it was and is a daily ritual, coffee in its endless variations. Whether it’s a cappuccino or caffè, no day would be complete without a stop at one of Rome’s countless coffee bars. You might ask what makes one Roman coffee bar better than the rest? It’s art and a combination of elements including tradition, the quality of the coffee beans themselves, the method of roasting, the developed blend, and not to be underestimated, the skill of the barista. But, beyond these factors is the heart and passion that goes into producing every ounce of full-bodied, creamy coffee that fills each tazza di caffè. Here are five of Rome’s not to be missed artisan coffee destinations.

Sant’Eustachio Il Caffè
(Piazza Sant’Eustachio)

Raimondo Ricci, co-owner of Sant’Eustachio, swears that the secret ingredient to Sant’Eustachio’s success is unparalled passion. This is an understatement. Commited to coffee from start to finish, the Sant’Eustachio buys the majority of its coffee from COOPFAM, a Brazilian Fair Trade Cooperative. They also donate extra proceeds from the sale of the Sant’Eustachio blend to the co-op and foster direct relationships with farmers , getting to know them personally.  Founded in 1938 in the centro storico district, Sant’Eustachio is a Roman institution. 

Top quality arabica coffee, tradition and the frenetic atmosphere are just a few of the reasons that a dedicated local clientele and tourists keep flocking to this local.

Sant’Eustachio’s legendary blend of one-hundred percent arabica beans is full-bodied and unique thanks to a traditional artisan approach and on-premise small batch wood roasting. An intoxicating woody aroma of coffee beans roasting wafts into the buzzing Piazza Sant’Eustachio, enveloping passersby. Cross over the threshold of this coffee mecca and discover where past meets present in a nostalgic atmosphere with original mosaic pavement and décor. Regulars order the renowned Gran Caffè, a larger version of a standard espresso with a mysteriously dense and perfectly executed crema. This evenly coloured caramel layer of goodness clings to the side of the cup all the way to your last precious sip. If you don’t take sugar, be sure to order senza zucchero as the coffee is presweetened.

Paranà Caffè
(Various locations: Caffetteria Fagli at Piazza del Cinquecento, Termini Station; La Casina del Lago a Villa Borghese, Villa Borghese; Caffetteria di Galleria Borghese, the Borghese Museum; distributed in Australia at www.casaitalia.com.au)

Founded by the Giannelli family in 1960, Torrefazione Paranà quickly became a premier artisan roaster and the preferred choice of top tier restaurants throughout Rome. Holding steadfastly to the artisan method of small batch coffee roasting, Paranà delivers an Italian blend characterised by intense aroma and rich, balanced fruity taste.

All miscele (blends) are an arabica-robusta mix of varied percentages originating from Brasil, Guatemala, Costa Rica, Lima and India. An oasis from the chaos surrounding Termini, Rome’s central train station, Paranà Caffè is teaming with travellers and locals alike. Talented baristas churn out endless cappuccinos adorned with decadent latte art. The leaf and heart shaped etchings seem too gorgeous to drink. Rest assured it tastes as good as it looks. A dynamic spot with modern décor, award winning coffee and ample seating, it’s a great place to savor a cappuccino and watch the world go by.

In the summertime, be sure to visit Paranà at the Casina del Lago in Villa Borghese, with great outdoor seating in one of Rome’s largest parks, it’s a fabulous place to enjoy a caffè, sit back and relax.

La Casa Del Caffè Tazza D’Oro
(Via degli Orfani)

A stone’s throw away from the Pantheon, Tazza D’Oro, is one of the few on premise artisan roasters left in the historical centre. Like clockwork, green arabica beans are poured into the wide mouth of the fire-engine red Probat gas roaster weekdays at 7am. The unmistakable nutty fragrance of la tostatura (roasting ) wafts into the surrounding streets, beckoning early risers.  Founded in 1946 by Mario Fiocchetto, the essence of Tazza D’Oro is captured by the famous “La Regina del Caffè.” Developed by Signor Fiocchetto himself, this exquisitely balanced blend of 100% arabica beans is served at the bar and continues to be the crowds’ favorite. Standing at the bar, Romans indulge in a morning cappuccino adorned with a snow-white froth and partake in an after lunch espresso. In the summer months, people queue for Rome’s most famous granita di caffè, a heavenly sweetened, coffee soaked icy treat, topped with dollops of rich whipped panna (cream). If you’re curious about any of the other eight blends such as the “Maragogype Guatemala” or the “Regina Blue Mountain,” they are available for purchase at the roasting counter.

Sciascia Caffè
(Via Fabio Massimo 80/a, Prati)

Rome’s coffee aficionados know exactly where to go for an outstanding caffè. Until 10 years ago, Sciascia was strictly an artisan coffee roaster. Open since 1919, Sciascia Caffè is located off the beaten path in the affluent zone of Prati. Wood accents with photographs hanging from ancient walls recall Rome as it was centuries ago. At first glance, it appears to be an old style Italian pharmacy frozen in time, with caramels displayed in glass containers, chocolate bars and licorice resting on well-worn shelves. A gentlemanly Signor Sciascia stands behind the counter, greeting his clients by name. A natural storyteller, he’s always happy to chat about the bar and its history. When told that his cappuccino is considered among the best in Rome, his modest response is “that’s what they tell me.” Rigorous bean selection, constant improvements to the half arabica half robusta blend and unwavering devotion result in an optimal coffee. Try the specialty, un caffè con cioccolato (espresso with chocolate) and you’ll quickly understand why coffee fanatics are addicted to Sciascia.

Castroni
(Various locations: Via Nazionale 71, Rione Monti; Via Cola Di Rienzo 196/198, Prati)

Umberto Castroni opened the original Castroni on Via Cola di Rienzo in 1932. With eight locations and counting, the Castroni family’s recipe hinges on excellence, consistency and location, location, location. An international specialty food shop and coffee maker, found on the best and busiest streets of Rome, each Castroni has its own personality and ambience. Lively and bustling, the contemporary designed Castroni on Via Nazionale caters to a well-heeled bunch. Professional baristas swiftly take orders and chat with the regulars. Cappuccini and caffè are skillfully poured. Italians and trendy travellers stand at the bar, rubbing shoulders, drinking a cappuccino and noshing on a cornetto. The espresso is sublime, full bodied and well balanced. Castroni’s five blends are roasted offsite and delivered to each location, guaranteeing a consistent and creamy espresso. “Miscela Bar Castroni” is served at the bar. Made from high quality Arabica beans, its caramel aroma and rich sweet flavor appeals to most palates. From the light roasted “Miscela Delicata” to the dark roasted “Miscela Robusta” there is something for every coffee lover.  A great place to knock back a coffee, grab a quick lunch and buy gourmet gifts.

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