The Australian Coffee in Good Spirits Champion on learning from the industry’s masters, breaking rules, and whether she’ll return to the competition.
Where and when was your first job in coffee?
Around 15 years ago, I worked at Bespoke Café in Hong Kong as an all-rounder. This sparked my interest in coffee and, after gaining more skills, I moved to a specialty coffee shop. There, my mentor Lok taught me about filter coffee and the differences between various origins and processing methods.
How did you get into roasting?
After university, I moved back to Australia to continue my coffee journey. In 2022, while working as a barista, I felt a strong desire to upskill in roasting coffee.
Before the pandemic, Bruno [Maiolo, President of the Australian Specialty Coffee Association] and I had met through judging competitions together. When the ASCA Central regional competition came to Sydney in 2022, I had the chance to reconnect with him. At the time, Bruno was about to undergo shoulder surgery and needed assistance. He offered me the opportunity to learn the practical skills of roasting. I was deeply grateful for the opportunity. After his recovery, in 2023 I went on to set up my own roastery, Smay Coffee Roasters.
What’s your favourite part about being a coffee roaster?
I love hearing how people experience my coffee. I really enjoy having the freedom to fine-tune each roast, experimenting with water and sugar to bring out the best flavour.
It’s especially rewarding when people appreciate a coffee that reflects my own taste. I aim to create a more developed roast, which contrasts with the current trend of lighter roasting. Even though my roasts might be slightly darker, they don’t come across as heavy or bitter. This approach helps home brewers enjoy an easier brewing experience and balanced taste.
What inspired you to compete in the Coffee in Good Spirits competition?
Patrick Rolf’s book, From Nerd to Pro: A Coffee Journey. His story shows how competitions can be a fantastic way to sharpen your skills, quickly gain a lot of knowledge, and meet incredible people.
Even though I didn’t have a bartending background, I picked up a lot about classic cocktails during my first year of competition in 2023. I learned that in the competition, coffee isn’t just about being perfectly extracted: it plays a supporting role in the cocktail.
In 2023, I lost marks for my second drink because I broke one of the rules. This motivated me to compete again this year as I wanted to see how much I could improve.
How did it feel to win the Australian championships?
I couldn’t believe it. I was so cautious not to break any rules and read them over and over in preparation.
Finding out I’d won was pretty stressful because it quickly dawned on me that I only had one month to prepare for the World Coffee in Good Spirits Competition in Denmark in June. I went out for drinks with the other competitors and judges to celebrate, but I couldn’t stop thinking about it. Thankfully, previous winners Danny Andrade and Danny Wilson were there and so generous with their advice.
What did you learn from competing on the world stage?
I learned a lot about logistics, like how to pack all your tools, equipment, and ingredients within the baggage limits and make sure nothing leaks.
More importantly, I learned the value of staying humble and being generous with my knowledge. I was truly grateful for the support and honest feedback I received from everyone in the coffee community before heading to Copenhagen.
Will you compete again?
Yes, but I haven’t decided when. Although the experience is rewarding, the process is also very stressful. That said, as soon as the World Championships were over I was already thinking about concepts for the next competition. Let’s wait and see.
This article appears in the October/November 2024 edition of BeanScene. Subscribe HERE.
