La Pavoni on the magic of lever machines and how they can reconnect users to the timeless ritual of coffee making.
In modern lifestyles, convenience reigns supreme. To keep up with the increasing pace of everyday life, many are ditching methods that slow them down and instead opting for fast, easy, and efficient solutions.
Yet, there are still moments when items halt us in our tracks, forcing us to slow down, take a breath, and enjoy experiences often taken for granted. One such instance, according to Smeg Professional General Manager Leon Wolf, is the La Pavoni Esperto Abile lever espresso machine.
The machine, first crafted by Desiderio Pavoni in 1950, is at the heart of the brand’s legacy. The journey began with the La Pavoni Europiccola, a lever-operated espresso machine that brought professional-grade coffee brewing into homes and small cafés.
“Unlike the motorised pumps of modern machines, the manual lever design allows users to control pressure and extraction time, making the barista an integral part of the brewing process,” says Leon. “Here, they can see how the water, pressure, and coffee interact.”
The lever mechanism is not only a functional advantage but an aesthetic feat. And despite advancements in materials, temperature stability, and precision accessories, the machines remain rooted in history.
“Its chrome body, brass fittings, and clean, timeless design reflect the post-war Italian passion for elegant and practical engineering. Lever machines like the Europiccola quickly became symbols of quality and heritage,” says Leon.
After the release of the pioneering Europiccola, in 1970 La Pavoni introduced the Professional model, with increased capacity and improved stability for high-demand brewing. The brand then reimagined the lever mechanism again in 2005 with its Stradivari Series, inspired by the curves of a violin. Now, the modern iteration of the machine – the Esperto Series – is designed for connoisseurs who delight in its precision tools, pressure gauges, and additional customisation options.
Although La Pavoni has reimagined its lever machines throughout the decades, Leon says the machines’ core mechanism have remained largely unchanged – a testament to their timeless design.
The Esperto Abile, according to Leon, celebrates the often-forgotten connection between human and machine, and repositions craftsmanship back into the spotlight. He says what makes La Pavoni lever machines so revered is their ability to put the art of espresso extraction in the hands of the user.
“In a world that prioritises speed and automation, the La Pavoni lever machine reminds us of the joy of slowing down. It is not just a coffee machine but an experience – a celebration of skill, ritual, and heritage,” says Leon.
“Lever machines demand patience, practice, and precision. The manual pulling of the lever creates a deeper connection between the barista and the espresso, and allows for control of the pre-infusion and extraction phases. The flavour profile of coffee extracted with a lever machine is completely different from that of a pump machine.”
He adds it’s this hands-on experience that sets lever machines apart from modern automated systems.
“You can adjust the speed of the pull – faster or slower – depending on the roast type you’re working with and the flavours you want to extract. Sometimes, a longer, slower pull at lower pressure yields different results compared to a faster pull at higher pressure,” he says.
And just like manual car drivers are deeply connected to their vehicles as they become part of the mechanism, the user becomes part of the process when they’re extracting coffee from a lever machine.
Despite its artistry, Leon says some people can be disheartened when they purchase a lever machine and find the espresso tastes terrible. It’s not the machine that’s at fault, he says, but rather the coffee, the grind, and the extraction technique.
“With a little coaching and guidance, they could be making amazing coffee,” he says. “This, for me, is one of the biggest gaps in the coffee industry: education.”
“A lever machine isn’t something you turn on and pull a shot 10 minutes later – that’s more for semi-automatic machines. With a lever, you need to preheat the machine, flush the line, and carefully adjust your grind and dose. You’ll probably throw away your first shot, just to refine it until you get that perfect espresso. But that’s part of the joy – the process, the learning, and the connection you build with the machine.”
Antony De Fina of Casa Espresso in Melbourne says lever machines naturally do many things modern machines are trying to replicate.
“For example, when you pull the lever up, you get a natural pre-infusion from the boiler, which helps with coffee dispersion. Another key feature, often referred to as a buzzword in the coffee industry, is pressure profiling – where people vary the extraction pressure during a shot,” he says.
Antony iterates the grind and dose are the most important variables. The machines typically require a slightly finer grind than a pump machine, and both the grind and the dose need to be very precise.
“They need to be correct. Pump machines may be a bit more forgiving in some respects, but when you get it right, the shot you pull from a lever machine is absolutely magnificent,” he says.
Antony says when pushing the lever down, it’s important to not push too hard. Having to apply more pressure may mean there is either too much coffee in the mechanism or the grind is too tight.
“The goal is to apply a steady, consistent pressure to get the right extraction,” he says. “You also get a feel for it quickly. With a well-set lever machine, you can instantly tell if you’ve got it right or wrong. The feedback comes through the lever itself, so you’ll know what the shot is going to be like the second you start the extraction.”
Echoing Leon, Antony says the machines stand the test of time.
“We service machines that are 30 years old, and the beauty of these machines is that there’s not a lot to go wrong with them. There are no pumps – just rubber seals. The fact that these machines are still in daily use after three decades is remarkable. There aren’t many things in your house that are 30 years old and still working,” he says.
As La Pavoni looks to the future, Leon says the company remains committed to honouring its design roots while empowering a new generation to embrace the craft of espresso.
“When you use a lever machine, every shot is a unique experience,” he says. “What if we slowed it down and reminded people about the romance of coffee? For me, coffee needs to be removed from the context of just being about caffeine. It should be about the experience, and the lever machine takes us back to the essence of espresso.”
For more information, visit lapavoni.com
This article appears in the February/March 2025 edition of BeanScene. Subscribe HERE.
